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easy glider electric manualThat's pre-Easy Glider Pro, non-electric. I can get the Easy Glider Pro, but have been unable to locate the older version. If anyone has one or knows where I can download a PDF copy, I would greatly appreciate the information. Thanks in advance for the assistance. Leonard (mac44mag). The removable, lightweight wings and ultra-durable GRP spar have advanced design and strength with an M-Space technology rigid hub. A more efficient ROXXY power system allows for excellent gliding and basic aerobatics including loops and rolls. Transport is a breeze with its detachable fin and tailplane. The EasyGlider 4 is available in both a KIT and RR version; with the RR model being equipped with servos, ESC and brushless motor for immediate flying enjoyment. Just like the larger Cularis the Easy Glider PRO can be built as a pure glider or as an electric by adding the optional power pack. The Easy Glider Pro's flying characteristics are perfect for the beginner, although this by no means implies that the more advanced pilot won't enjoy it - quite the contrary. If you are an expert you will soon discover that the EasyGlider PRO has the kind of performance only seen with much larger and more expensive gliders. D Bauanleitung 03 10. GB Building instructions 11 19. F Notice de construction 20 33. I Istruzioni di montaggio 34.The EasyGlider PRO is an updated model based on the popular and proven EasyGlider and EasyGlider electric. Just like the larger Cularis the Easy Glider PRO Form 1098-t filling out, Silktest guide, Focus guide photo shop, Frustrate a contract, Ilo26hd tv instruction manuals. Reload to refresh your session. Reload to refresh your session. Discover everything Scribd has to offer, including books and audiobooks from major publishers. Start Free Trial Cancel anytime.http://www.020yibao.com/baige/images/userfiles/creda-79154c-user-manual.xml

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Report this Document Download Now Save Save EasyGlider Pro Manual For Later 0 ratings 0 found this document useful (0 votes) 83 views 18 pages EasyGlider Pro Manual Uploaded by Cristian Cortez Miranda Description: Manual Easy Glider pro Full description Save Save EasyGlider Pro Manual For Later 0 0 found this document useful, Mark this document as useful 0 0 found this document not useful, Mark this document as not useful Embed Share Print Download Now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 18 Search inside document Browse Books Site Directory Site Language: English Change Language English Change Language. But that’s not all, the EasyGlider 4 makes a great all-round sportster that performs basic aerobatics (including inverted flight and stall-turns) with a grace that’ll add a whole new dimension to your flying. In essence, the EasyGlider 4 is a model for all skill levels and all occasions. Features Robust Elapor construction. Very low cruise speed. Ultra efficient brushless motor for a brisk climb and long flights. Efficient folding propeller. Transport friendly detachable wings fin and tailplane. Ample fuselage space accommodates a wide range of battery sizes. Easy fit canopy for speedy battery changes. Accommodates aileron up landing aid. Beginner-friendly flying characteristics. Please register for the stock notification below. As soon as we receive new information, you will be notified. You just have to fix the RC-system, charge a battery (for example ROXXY EVO 3-2200 20C M6) and to push-in the fin and horizontal stabilizer. Gluing is not necessary. The EasyGlider 4 is an enjoyment model which cuts a fine figure in aerobatics too.Please E-Mail me when this product is back in-stock. Please confirm your registration by clicking on the link that we will send you.http://3ringmetals.org/files/creda-79151c-user-manual.xmlWing with super light and very hard GFK-square spar Stiff fuselage because of M-Space-Technology Removable fin and horizontal stabilizer RR-Version with stuck-on landing-flap Modern designed decal sheet with landing-flap Efficient and easy ROXXY-engine The RR-model is putted together at 100 at 100 and equipped with MULTIPLRX-servos and a ROXXY-engine. You just have to fix the RC-system, charge a battery (for example ROXXY EVO 3-2200 20C M6) and to push-in the fin and horizontal stabilizer. Gluing is not necessary. The EasyGlider 4 is an enjoyment model which cuts a fine figure in aerobatics too.Die Steuerung des Modells erfolgt uber die Funktionen H,S,Q,M. Das Modell ist als PNP- PLUG N PLAY ausgefuhrt.With the current 2,4 GHz Technology M-LINK and telemetry system, Multiplex has put itself in front of the RC Industry in Germany. Since the early 2000s Multiplex began producing finished models made from Elapor, a high-tech particle foam, which setted a milestone im the RC Airplane, as well as in the Helicopter ( Funcopter ) sectors. Since 2002, Multiplex has been owned by the south korean HiTEC group and has become one of the leading RC manufacturers in the world!By using the website you agree to this. read more By using the website you agree to this. read more. A great glider gets even better. Product Review. As seen in the March 2018 issue of Model Aviation.Wingspan: 70.9 inches. Wing area: 518 square inches. Length: 42.5 inches. Radio: Hitec Flash 8 transmitter; Hitec Minima 6E receiver; four factory-installed Multiplex Tiny-S micro servos. Components needed to complete: Minimum four-channel radio system (transmitter and receiver only); 3S 2,200 mAh LiPo battery; basic tools. Minimal flying area: Club field. Power system: Multiplex C28-34 850 Kv outrunner brushless motor (included); 9 x 6 folding propeller (included); Multiplex Roxxy 720 20-amp ESC (included); ElectriFly 3S 2,200 30C LiPo battery. Power output: 16 amps, 196 watts. Flying weight: 35.3 ounces.http://ninethreefox.com/?q=node/13628 Flight time: 10-plus minutes. Wing loading: 9.8 ounces per square footYou can treat it as a powered glider or a sport airplane. I’ve been a fan of the original Multiplex EasyGlider for several years. That curvy foam airplane helped me realize that gliders do not have to be fragile or complex to fly well. The model’s toughness and good flight performance gave me confidence to expand my comfort zone with gliders. In fact, it was an EasyGlider that provided my first tastes of aerotow and Slope flying. My personal model has endured lots of abuse, but it is still in my fleet and is flown regularly. Although the original EasyGlider is no longer produced, Multiplex has maintained the bloodline with a few variants throughout the years. The company’s latest version, the EasyGlider 4, retains the same look and feel of the original design, but incorporates a significant list of updates and improvements.Multiplex offers the EasyGlider 4 to US buyers in two versions. The kit variant includes unassembled foam airframe components, a folding propeller, and a hardware package. Stepping up to the Receiver-Ready (RR) model that I reviewed adds a brushless motor, ESC, and four Multiplex servos. The RR version is factory-assembled as well. All you do is install a receiver for your four-plus-channel radio, add a three-cell flight battery, and complete a handful of final assembly steps. My initial inspection of the EasyGlider 4 left a positive impression. The first thing I noticed was the quality of the molded-foam components. Although my legacy EasyGlider is polka-dotted with mold marks, the new airframe is completely smooth. The only mold marks to be found are located in hidden areas. I noticed that the factory-assembled parts were put together very well. There were no sloppy joints or misaligned seams. I especially appreciated that the decals were correctly positioned without wrinkles or bubbles.http://chamabusinesscenter.com/images/canon-sx110-is-manual.pdf The only aspect I didn’t care for was the use of hot glue to hold down the rudder and elevator servos. The gloppy glue works fine. It just looks out of place in the otherwise tidy radio bay.Its build quality is excellent. This can be helpful when dealing with tight spaces during storage and transport. The novelty of this airplane’s detachable tail, however, is somewhat offset by the setscrew-type connectors that link the rudder and elevator control horns to their respective pushrods. This setup forces you to center the control surfaces each time you remove the tail, likely fouling your previous trim settings. The original EasyGlider was available as either an unpowered, pure glider or a powered version with a geared brushed motor. Both versions of the new model are designed to be launched using a direct-drive brushless motor with a folding propeller.Multiplex’s 72-page instruction manual seems intimidating at first. That feeling resides after you see that the same manual also applies to the kit version, which requires many more assembly steps. Did I mention that the instructions are presented in five languages. The steps specified for the RR kit are a small subset of the total manual. You’ll only need an hour or so to get the airplane ready for flight. The 20-amp ESC is factory-mounted to the starboard wall, slightly behind the rudder servo. The self-adhesive loop tape on my ESC would not stay adhered, so I routed a small zip tie behind the hook tape on the fuselage and cinched it around the ESC. I use an ElectriFly three-cell 2,200 mAh 30C LiPo battery to power the EasyGlider 4. The battery is positioned at the entrance of a cavelike area that extends beneath the wing. Hook-and-loop tape holds the battery in place. When installing the loop tape to the airframe, the manual suggests that you shore up the tape’s adhesive with CA glue. I still didn’t trust this bond to last very long, so I applied the loop tape to a piece of rigid plastic sheet (light plywood would also work) then glued the plastic to the airframe with GOOP adhesive. The manual instructs you to mount your receiver behind the battery at the rear of the cave. My Hitec Minima 6E six-channel receiver fit with plenty of room to spare. I routed one antenna through each air-exit slot in the fuselage sides. I then taped the exposed sections of the antennas along the pushrod channels on the outside of the fuselage.The servo wires are tightly bundled to prevent any obstructions concerning battery positioning. I went back and bundled all of the wires using a braided sleeve and heatshrink tubing. That did the trick. I can now install and remove the battery without interference. Note the zip tie on the ESC and hot glue holding the servos. The completed model balanced at the suggested center of gravity with no ballast necessary. Better yet, the ready-to-fly weight of my model is 3.5 ounces less than the specification!I’ve been keeping the tail feathers bolted on, but I do remove the wings for transport. I simply have to slide each wing panel over the square spar and plug in the aileron servos. The female ends of the factory-installed servo extensions are hard mounted in each wing socket. The EasyGlider 4 is ready to go when the wings are fully seated in the fuselage. My preflight analysis of the power system indicated a power loading of 86 watts per pound. That led me to anticipate a somewhat lethargic climb rate from the EasyGlider 4. I was wrong! It’s no rocket ship, but this airplane is not a slouch. The model is easy to hand launch at half throttle. The airplane can reach a comfortable soaring altitude in less than a minute. At that point, you can kill the throttle and let the propeller fold back. Then it’s time to go looking for lift. I admit that I’m not a very good glider pilot, but the EasyGlider 4 is often reluctant to come down. If you let the airplane maintain a moderate speed, it will reward you with impressive glides. You can get numerous climbs on a single battery charge. Flight times are limited only by your thermal-hunting skills, but if you’re like me, achieving maximum duration isn’t really your thing. That’s okay. The EasyGlider 4 has aerobatic chops too. Using the suggested control throws allows a wide range of four-channel aerobatics. The motor has plenty of power to pull the airplane through tall loops and other maneuvers. After you’ve mastered them, you can try doing them with the motor off! Aileron rolls are slightly on the slow side. Keep your airspeed up and be ready to add a little down-elevator as you pass through the inverted phase. Adding rudder input will speed up things. The EasyGlider 4 can easily sustain inverted flight. It simply requires a fair amount of throttle and down-elevator. Yes, it will glide inverted as well, but doing so quickly bleeds off energy. On the subject of killing energy, the EasyGlider 4 does great sideslips. It’s a handy maneuver for slowing down a hot final approach. The manual also suggests programming your radio to use the ailerons as spoilerons. I’m sure that is an effective energy-management tool as well, but I have not yet tried it with my EasyGlider 4. Landing the EasyGlider 4 is no problem. All of the control surfaces remain effective until touchdown. One of this model’s new features is an integrated plastic belly skid. So the only question when landing is, “How far can you make it slide?”It’s no secret that RC simulators are great tools for learning to fly and keeping your skills sharp, even if it’s raining outside, but were you aware that Multiplex offers a free RC simulator. MULTIflight is a Windows-based program that can be downloaded from the German Multiplex website that is listed in the “Sources” section. MULTIflight comes with profiles for numerous Multiplex models, including the EasyGlider 4. The emulated airplane’s performance closely mimics the real model. You can even participate in a virtual “Climb and Glide” competition with the EasyGlider 4. The rules are simple, but the challenge is tough! The simulator does not offer a lot of bells and whistles; however, the graphics are outstanding and the program runs well on my aging laptop. You can use a wide range of game controllers or joysticks to fly the models. The best training comes from using your actual radio transmitter. My Hitec Flash 8 works perfectly with MULTIflight using a generic USB transmitter interface that is plugged into the radio’s trainer port. If you’re thinking about buying the EasyGlider 4 (or some other Multiplex model), download the simulator and take it for a test flight. In many ways, the EasyGlider 4 is like its predecessor, which opened my eyes to the diverse world of RC gliding more than a decade ago. The things that I like about my legacy EasyGlider are still there. The newest EasyGlider is simple, resilient, and does many things well. Where it separates itself is its level of refinement. To put it another way, Multiplex has implemented changes that keep its tried-and-true glider relevant in this ever-changing hobby. Multiplex MULTIflight Simulator. ElectriFlyWeb page addresses and e-mail addresses turn into links automatically. Lines and paragraphs break automatically. Motors Futaba Transmitters and Receivers In essence, the EasyGliderDue to having our knuckles severely rapped by the Post Office we can no longer send any kind of battery via the post. We can not deliver batteries outside of mainland UK. Possessing incredibly low gliding speed, the model simply exploits thermal lift once the motor is cut. Furthermore it makes a great fun model for the advanced pilot, and simple aerobatics are well within its capabilities. Let RC Ground School help get you off on the right foot! I’d looked at the Multiplex Easy Glider but always seemed to have something else to do or spend money on. After an unusual (for me) weekday morning at the flying field where one of the club members had a electric powered glider, I decided to pull the trigger. I stumbled upon a hobby shop in San Diego and as I was planning a visit, I put it on my list of things to do. The few pieces were placed in the long narrow box with a couple of bags of small parts, the instructions and the large sheet of decals. It didn’t have the foam rack that the Gemini kit comes packed in, but it didn’t have the number and smaller surfaces the Gemini did, either. Upon inventorying the kit I found nothing damaged and nothing missing. If you’ve built any other Multiplex Elapor foam kit before, you’ll see nothing unusual in the Easy Glider Electric. The same construction techniques of external control rod snakes and canopy clips are used with the Easy Glider Pro. There are a couple of things you’ll want to do before you start. First, you’ll want to decide whether you plan to use the maroon and silver themed decals or paint. I’ve also found that sanding is not a good idea when the plan is to use the decals directly on the foam. The foam’s smooth surface is a better match for the decals and the dimples don’t seem to make a difference in performance. The point is you need to decide. Second, map out the length of your servo wires coming from the wings mounting bays. I’ve found different brands have different lengths. You will need several extensions. The first is from the wing servo. The directions call for 60mm extending from the left wing root and 75mm from the right. Rather than make my own extensions to the exact fit, I used 24 inch extensions and cut a small cavity for the excess when the wings get pushed together. More on that later. The other extensions are required from the receiver to the servo connectors that mount in the fuselage on the lower surface of the wing opening. The length of these will be dependent on where you will mount the receiver. I wasn’t exactly sure so I used 12 inch extensions knowing I’d have enough length. Last, you’ll need to consider your choice of motor and spinner combination. I chose a smaller brushless motor with a 4mm shaft. The recommended Multiplex spinner for the Cularis fits a 5mm shaft so that wasn’t going to work. Folks on the web suggested upping the shaft size with heat shrink tubing on the 4mm shaft. I didn’t get that to work so I went with an APC prop hub and blades with a 2 inch plastic spinner. Multiplex claims to have a 4mm spinner set coming as I write this, however. When that was done, I followed the instructions to get started. By way of caution, if you are not using the Multiplex power system, you’ll want to fit your motor to the motor mount before gluing the fuselage together. Here is what I ended up doing. My solution was to use my rotary tool to enlarge the existing inner holes to more resemble a keyhole. See the picture. I used the X mount that came with the motor as the template. Since the cross pieces of the X mount were larger than the diameter of the kit motor mount, I decided to cut them down and epoxy the X mount onto the inside wall of the kit motor mount. This allows me to remove the motor if needed. It would have been much harder to do if I had done the modifications with the kit motor mount installed in the fuselage and the fuselage halves glued together. With that deviation from the instruction manual, I went to work. Even with careful application of CA along the snake channel, I’ve had some ooze out the end and glue the snakes together. Not good. With the tape, I’ve avoided that. I also work the CA so I don’t have much near the end of the channel. As pressure is applied along the length of the snake, the CA pushes out some anyway. A little goes a long way in the snake channels. Perhaps more so with the Easy Glider Pro, you’ll want to work on a level surface during this step. With the long narrow fuselage, it would be pretty easy to induce a warp along its length with the snakes holding the twist in place. I installed the antenna sleeve along the bottom of the fuselage even though I knew I’d be using a 2.4 GHz receiver. I figured the hard surface was good along the bottom and would add strength. I’ve read where some have used a carbon rod for the same purpose. It would be stronger than the plastic sleeve. The rest of the fuselage assembly went as described in the manual. The Hitec HS81 servos fit snuggly into the mounting spaces. I used a drop of hot glue to secure them in place. Having centered them before installation, I mounted the connecting rods to the servo horn and then to the servo itself. It is a tight fit in the nose, so ended up using the small X shaped servo horns. That was followed up with the canopy latches and the servo connectors in the wing area. In preparing to join the two halves of the fuselage, I sprayed kicker on a paper towel and wiped one half of the fuselage with it where I’d have glue on the other. While it was drying, I made sure I had done everything I needed inside by reviewing the instructions. When I was satisfied things were complete, I put CA on the gluing surfaces of the non-kicker side. I had decided not to put the steel balls in the tail so I aligned the halves and quickly placed them together ensuring the seams were straight. Don’t hurry and when it says to dry fit the pieces, do so. I paid particular attention to two things during the tail assembly. One was the rudder hinge installation. There is a large rudder hinge mounted to the bottom of the rudder. I didn’t want CA getting into the hinge so I was very stingy with the CA. I also rubbed a little Vaseline along the hinge pin to prevent CA from sneaking into it. The other area of attention was ensuring I had good perpendicular angles when the tail was mounted. The pieces went together easily and resulted in the desired placement but I measured often as the assembly progressed. For those who haven’t. The control horns simply glue into the recesses on their respective control surface. I have found that it is easier to connect the quick connector to the horn before mounting to the surface. The instructions call for this too. However, you must match the quick connector to the appropriate control horn with the control rod in mind. That is, the connector’s body will vary as to the side of the control horn it is on depending on the control surface. In other words, don’t make all of them the same. The trick for the mounts is to have them tight enough on the horn so they don’t wobble but loose enough to spin as the angles change as the surface moves. If they are too tight, the rod will bend and you’ll add unnecessary stress to your servo. Some may opt to solder the wires together to get the exact length. I wasn’t that ambitious, however. After mounting the wing servo in the molded bay, I marked where the connectors would mate in the narrow channel provided in the wing spare mounting area. There were a couple of cutouts already formed but of course, they didn’t match what I needed. I carefully used an Exacto knife to dig out an opening in the foam for the connectors. I had to dig down a little so the spar cover fit smoothly. Once fitted, I used a little glue to hold the servo wires in place along the leading edge of the opening. After test fitting the spar cover, I carefully glued it in place as described in the instructions. The second wing worked the same way. Unlike the Easy Star, the canopy came with a flat plastic former. The canopy latch lugs mount through this piece and with the cut outs molded into the fuselage, you end up lifting up on the firm plastic instead of the foam. It is a nice touch. I spent a couple of days thinking about where I was going to put my receiver. I’m using a Spektrum AR6100. Since I used a 12 inch extension on the wing connectors, I had a little freedom. As a result I ended up mounting the receiver in the canopy. I used some double stick foam. The little antennas are up away from the other electronics and should have a clear path to the transmitter regardless of the orientation. I programmed the radio for both spoilers and flaps on the ailerons. Spoilers need nose down elevator mix. Flaps didn’t seem to make a difference in pitch control. I probably should have added the steel balls to the tail. I ended up using about 1.5 oz of lead on the tail to get it to balance. I slide small flat pieces of lead into some heat shrink and shrunk it down. I then glued the lead filled heat shrink tubing to both sides of the horizontal stabilizer with a drop or two of CA. As you can see in the pictures, I chose to paint the model. Rather than discuss that here, look for a separate article on painting. If wrong number is dialed for the new call, just press the FLASH button to get back the call on hold. In another case, if the local user doesn t hang up the phone after new call sets up, press FLASH button to switch between the first call and the new call. Please be informed that PBX between phone sets and the gateway must support FLASH features to make this function work correctly. If a phone set is connecting directly to the FXS port of the gateway and not functioning to FLASH, please adjust the settings in Flash Detect Time in category Advanced Options. Advanced Options There are two levels to enter Web. Administrator is able to change all settings. Web UI only changes some settings. NOTE: Enter new Login ID and password for two levels. Web UI auto log out: When logging in a web page, if a user does not act within the effective time range, the user will be disconnected from the web page to allow others to login. Dial Wait Timeout: Use it to set the waiting time for the user s first key pressing when dialing a number. Inter Digits Timeout: Set the waiting time between each key pressing. The inputted numbers will be dialed after the timeout. DTMF Detection Sensitivity: Used to adjust the sensitivity of the telephone keys. Enable Hook Flash Event: The gateway will deliver the flash signal to remote party via RFC2833 or SIP Info. Payload Type:Payload type of RFC2833. Uses Second CPT for VoIP Call: This function is usually applied when the user selects VoIP as the primary path for outgoing calls and PSTN as the backup. By enabling this function, the gateway will generate a different set of tones to inform the user that VoIP is in service. Speaking Volume: Adjusts the speaking volume. Tone Volume: Adds a new option to make tone volume adjustable. This setting will be applied to all tones generated by the gateway including Dial Tone, Busy Tone, and so on. Flash Time: Used to adjust the detecting period of flash signal from the phone set connected to the FXS port. For example, if pressing the HOLD key will disconnect a call, increase the Flash Detect Time should fix this issue. Enable Polarity Reversal: As the remote site answer this call or hook on the FXS port will reverse the polarity. 36 35 Codec Fax Settings Preferred Codec Type: Since different voice codec have different compression ratios, so the sound quality and occupied bandwidths are also different. It is recommended to use the default provided (G.723.1) because it occupies less bandwidth and will provide better sound quality. Jitter Buffer: Adjusts the jitter to receive a packet. If the jitter range is too wide, it will delay voice transmission. Silence Suppression: If one side of a connection is not speaking, the system will stop sending voice data (package) to decrease bandwidth usage. Echo Canceling: Prevents poor telecommunication quality caused by echo interference. Codec: Choose the codec that you needs. Packet Time: Defines how long the gateway sends a RTP packet-voice packet- to the other side. The smaller the value, the more bandwidth usage. The larger the value, the more voice delay. Approximate Bandwidth Require: The bandwidth required varies with Codec format and packet time. T.38: The T.38 protocol is used for better and faster facsimile transmission. When this function is enabled, the following fax and voice parameter settings will be disabled, so it is recommended to enable this function to gain better fax quality. When this function is enabled, please select UDP, TCP, or AUTO. If selecting TCP and some routers cannot use the Fax function, please select UDP instead. Enable High Quality: The system sends the same FAX frame twice to get a high quality of the FAX. It requires more bandwidth. Enable Secure T.38: This allows gateways to send faxes on both sides. 37 T.30: The system uses T.30 as the protocol for fax transmission. The parameter settings are the same as for voice transmission.